Radio W4KAZ

Thanks for stopping by the virtual KazShack. Feel free to comment - I often approve them.

BPFF – The Kludgy Switch Box – Part4

Part 4 of the W4KAZ filter project series comments on the process leading up to the integrated box full of NVARC Ugly filters for use in the KazShack. The quest continues.

Notes: Link to photos of the project at bottom of this page. If you want to read about the project from the beginning, go to the”Band Pass Filter Fever” series page.

Part of the project goal is to put all of the NVARC filters into a switched box to allow for SO2R and use at Field Day and on IOTA expedition. The original idea was to use a simple rotary switch. Somewhere along the way the idea morphed into using relays set up to allow control from a band decoder.Toying with the relay switching idea brought up a couple of issues that I chose to avoid. Instead, the individual filters were tied together with a two pole ten position switch.

A previous project resulted in a seven position remote antenna switch.That switch is lossy on 15m and 10m because of the point to point dead-bug style wiring. I didn’t see an easy way to avoid this problem, and I’m not set up for PCB design/manufacture. Using PCB’s and strip line runs would solve the issue. I have an idea for making strip lines that may work, but it is a bit Rube Goldberg-ish, so I chose to shelve that temporarily.

So, back to the rotary switch. I had a 2-pole 10 position switch in the junk box. The contacts are silvered brass, and seem beefy enough for the job, so I tested it out by wiring up the input/output to a bypass position.

Ick. Needless to say, it is not an ideal solution. The loss through the switch alone on 10m is about 0.6db. Losses are lower on 40m and 80m, just barely measurable.

So, WTF. I used it anyway. More suitable switches are a bit pricy if bought new, and this one was already in my sweaty little hands. Impatience, “good enough”, and zero cost won out over quality. Engineer the possible.

After all of that hand wringing was done, some other practical construction choices needed to be thought out. The end goal of constructing a switched filter box could have been implemented in several ways.

Method 1: Use the existing set of filters, switching them in via an external switch box, all connected via a rat’s nest of coax jumpers.

Method Zwei: Build another set of filters into a larger enclosure, and incorporate the switch into the new design.

Method III: Use some less aesthetically pleasing choice that will also benefit from poorly conceived and hacked together engineering practices.

Well the choice was clear – use Method III!

The rationale unfolded as a matter of “least inconvenient compromise” rather than “optimal design”. I was limited in the number of parts available. That was the primary limiting factor for method 2, not enough capacitors of the proper values on hand for a full second set of filters. Keeping the individual filters available was desirable for the sake of future flexibility, so ripping them apart and re-assembling was not considered.

Parts count also played a part in ruling out method 1, as it would use up 20-plus pl-259’s, plus the coax.

My compromised solution was to use the individual filters with a slight modification. Rather than remove the so-239 connectors, I merely tacked on a pigtail of coax for the runs to and from each switch. It is a compromise in every way, electrically, mechanically, and aesthetically. But it sure was simple.

It also seemed to work electrically better than I expected, as none of the loss figures vary substantially from the losses I would expect from the switch plus those of the original individual filters. In other words, the db losses through the filter added to the db losses from the switch in bypass add up to the total loss, when each band is measured separately.

The completed box shows losses on all bands of approximately 1.0 db. This is a bit odd, given the losses of the switch itself vary by band. But the insertion losses of the filters are lowest on 10m, and highest on 80m. Since the losses through the switch component are high on 10m and low on 80m, they all seem to coincidentally hover in the 1.0db range.

It appears that the insertion losses on 40m and 80m filters are a bit higher than the NVARC spec. This is probably because of compromises made in the physical construction, as the coils in those filters are closer to the sides of the enclosure than they should be. They were built last and the enclosure used were more difficult to work with due to their non-standard construction.

The insertion losses in the 1.0 db range are significant enough to be a concern, but everything is a compromise. This is the compromise I’m required to make for SO2R without outlay of more ca$h. The ca$h reserves are currently at less than optimal levels, but there is a lot of that going on. It will be an even larger compromise operating with low power than it would be if the filters were followed by an amplifier, but such is life. Engineer the possible!

In the grand scheme, the finished NVARC box shows about 0.2db more losses than I could expect from the commercial Dunestar series, and maybe 0.4db more loss than is expected from the W3NQN variety. On a positve note, this one cost less than $50.00USD in materials, not to mention everything I learned during the construction. The time required for construction was an educational investment, and was well spent.

Pictures of the KazShack NVARC filter box and K4VX filter sample.

Previous in series: Band Pass Filter Fever – The Guinea Pigs – Part 3

Next in series: BPFF – Guess-timating the Filter Efficacy – Part 5.

SixPak Online

Finished wiring up the control cables for the Array Solutions SixPak. There’s a mistake on one of the control cable assemblies that were too hastily assembled, a W4KAZ problem, not anything wrong with the SixPak. The work around was easier than re-wiring the cable, so I just re-connected the wires inside the control box to fix the problem.

Using Cat5 cable, the color coding inside the KazShack “Should Be” as follows:

  1. 10m – orange
  2. 15m – white/orange stripe
  3. 20m – green
  4. 40m – white/green stripe
  5. 80m – blue
  6. 160m-white/blue stripe
  7. 12v or gnd – brown and white with brown stripe
  8. (tied to #7)

Note: The SixPak wiring block in the controlboxallows 12v+ to be sent down one cable and 12v gnd on the other cable. I could just have easily sent 12v+ down wire #7 and used wire # 8 for ground. That would allow the SixPak to function using either switch position alone with a single control cable. That’s also probably how most folks would wire the cables, since at leastone radiowill work when wired that way.

For quick connects, I used a set of 8-wire computer power cable extensions(ATX power extensions). Each extension is 8 inches long, and cutting one in half gives a mating connector pair. Easy enough to splice on, but I obviously screwed one up somewhere. When testing, Radio B was found to have 10m/40m and 15m/20m pairs reversed. Again, rather than re work the cable, I just rewired the four appropriate wires inside the control box, and taped a sticky note inside the cover to remind me I dorked up that radio B cable assembly.

Now a bit more cable assembly will have most of the bits in place for some new operating fun.

Outstanding KazShack Issues:

  1. hoisting 15m loop
  2. 10m antenna(???what to try???)(???and why bother???)
  3. 160m antenna on ground
  4. 40m antenna switch
  5. 20m antenna switch
  6. Tuning K2 for 80m/160m
  7. Shack layout redesign
  8. Operate!

BPFF – The Guinea Pigs – Part3

So, a long hiatus between band pass filter musings. In Part 1, I laid out several reference sources for band pass filter projects. Part 2 details the decision process, plus some notes on what happened with initial attempts at reproducing the K4VX Filter and NVARC filter projects.

Here I have a bit more detail on each project. After obtaining a small supply of the capacitors specified by the NVARC design, I’ve completed the 40m and 80m filters.

Measurements on the 40m NVARC filter show about 0.8db loss through the filter, with the SWR pass band covering the entire band easily. Outside the band, the SWR rises rapidly above 7.370 Mc, and below about 6.775Mc. That would seem to indicate the filter is resonant lower in the band, but it actually shows about 2 watts more attenuation at the bottom of the CW segment than it does at top of the SSB area.

The 80m NVARC filter also shows about 0.8db of loss through the filter. The SWR is about 1.5:1 across the entire band, and the filter seens to have its sweet spot right near the SSB DX window at about 3.775 Mc. That should prove fortuitous, since it is also where my 80m folded dipole resonates, but it is completely by chance.

These last two filters probably have slightly higher losses than they should due to construction techniques. The cases I had available for their enclosures were not ideal. Their assembly did not allow easy construction by the NVARC guidelines, and the coils are probably mounted less than optimally inside their cases. Through experimentation I found that slight variations in coil positioning had an effect on their insertion losses.

Additionally, the 15m filter began acting up, showing terrible losses. It turns out that in slinging it around the shield had become dislodged and was either in contact with or too close to one of the coils. Re-securing the shield solved the problem, and put the filter back very close to the NVARC spec’d performance.

By comparison, the K4VX set I have show less attenuation. I have K4VX versions for 20m, 40m, and 80m. Both the 40m and 80m filters show very low losses through the filters, both at about 0.3db of loss, only a couple of watts. The 20m version shows losses similar toits NVARC counterpart, in the vicinity of 0.7db. I expect to rebuild the 20m filter from this series using the ceramic caps rather than silver mica caps. It will be interesting to see if the loss figures change.

I have not yet built the 10m and 15m versions of this design, and may not. The attenuation specified by K4VX on these bandsis not as good as the NVARC spec. It might be worth trying the NVARC filter designwith toroids rather than air wound coils. An excellent experiment idea, and the 10m and 15m NVARC design seems to work well as described and reproduced here.

Given the low losses through the K4VX design, I may use that set for the run station, and the NVARC design for the mult station in an SO2R setting. The K4VX design is also physically much smaller, another practical advantage. The NVARC design has a better set of attenuation figures specified, but it will be nice to get actual measurements on the filters before declaring them a better choice. Some actual on-air testing can’t hurt either.

The coax stub project has been placed on the shelf for the moment. It is worth noting that coaxial stubs are probably better described as notch filters rather than band pass filters, as they are designed to place a notch on the harmonic or sub-harmonic frequencies. The book by W2VJN, “Managing Interstation Interference – Coaxial Stubs and Filters”is a treasure trove of useful information. For anyone with an interest in the subject of coaxial stubs, the book is worth every red penny of its price. Add it to your library and you won’t be displeased.

Previous in series: Band Pass Filter Fever – Untangling The Web – Part 2

Next in Series:Band Pass Filter Fever – The Kludgy Switch Box – Part 4.

Pollenating the Antennas – 80m Folded Dipole

Spring Fever, Hay Fever, and on the positive side, Antenna Fever.

The antennas are still in somewhat dis-array. But chugging right along in its 9th year of service is the trusty 80m folded dipole. The dipole serving the KazShack is cut according to the cookbook dimensions for folded dipoles outlined in the ARRL Antenna Book. In the ?? edition, the most recent available here, it is the lead off in Chapter 15, Portable Antennas. For those without the Antenna Bible, it was also re-published WITH permission from the ARRL, in the March 2002 edition of the CARC “FEEDLINE” newsletter. See pages 5 and 6.

I didn’t realize it had been in service so long. Given its construction from 300 ohm TV twinlead, I expected the wires to fail. It has required a repair, but that was due to damage from falling limbs. That is a problem with all of the antennas here.

It has occupied two seperate locations. Its first install favored the northwest, and it was really a killer into the upper Midwest, even with just 100w. It currently is oriented favoring a compass heading just to the east of due north. This improved the signals from Europe and the New England states, but is really a compromise.

The wonderful thing about folded dipoles is the hugh SWR bandwidth. The local version favors the CW/80m end, but the 2:1 SWR bandwidth is from about 3580kc to 3800kc. It is still well below 3:1 SWR at the bottom of 80m. It goes above 3:1 at around 3970kc. The internal tuners of both the FT-920 and K2 can bring the match down to 1:1. Sweet.

This antenna is a keeper. The only problem I have with it is that the construction article does not delve deep enough into the theory. I would like to reproduce the antenna using 450 ladder line, but don’t understand the methodology of the matching section well enough to scale the antenna. Hmmm. A conundrum.

Simple Two Position Remote Antenna Switch

The current plan is to incorporate a SixPak into the antenna switching scheme here in the KazShack. The SixPak is to help enable an exploratory foray into SO2R operating.

It would also be useful to have the ability to use more than one resonant antenna on a given band. For example, the station is currently limited to a single dipole on 40 meters. It would possibly be helpful to have another dipole at right angles to the first. This would likely help bring up stations that are off the ends of the current dipole. It might be even more helpful on 20m where the antennas are higher relative to the percentage of the bands wavelength.

So a quickie two antenna remote switch is in order.

Two Position SwitchTwo Position Switch W4KAZ SwitchW4KAZ Switch

The requirements are not critical for my low power application. It is simple enough. The relay is the P&B RTB14012F, a SPDT relay rated at 12A in its normal general purpose AC applications. This series of relays has been in use in my seven position switch for a couple of years now, and is in the same series of relays used in several high power switch project articles from NCJ. In this specific switch there are no losses that are measurable up through 6m. This was tested only with an ordinary watt meter into a dummy load, and applies to either output port of the switch. So far so good.

The only other components are a clamping diode, a 10nf bypass capacitor, a few bits of hook-up wire, and three coax connectors. The diode and the cap go across the coil on the relay to suppress nasty RF side-effects on the DC side of the circuit. The enclosure was easily the most expensive item. Total cost is about $12 USD. The 12v control cables are potted with hot glue. The enclosure is not water tight, but the switch will be mounted in or under a rain shield. The relay itself is sealed, so insects might be the only issue should they infiltrate the enclosure.

The switching controls are going to be in a yet to be determined integrated panel. That will add to the cost by the amount of the switch which will be mounted in the control panel. Cat5e will be used for all control cable runs.

I expect to place this puppy between the SixPak and the 40m antennas. Coax stubs for 40m will connect the SixPak to the two position switch. The default position(switch off) will be the primary antenna facing NE/SW. There will not be a grounded or unused position, as lightning protection will be added at the “radio A/radio B” positions of the SixPak. That arrangement will keep the radios isolated from one another via the SixPak, and unable to simultaneously select antennas resonant on the same band. (maybe….depends on the antennas used for the other bands, aina?)

With the addition of one relay and one extra control wire, it is easy to make a similar three or four position switch.

Sometimes simplicity is good, or as in this case, “good enough”.

K2 Impressions – Part 10 – Kazmo’s Kustom Kreations

A Cool Accessory – aka Outboard Heat Management Project

The first extended period of use for the K2 came about during Field Day 2008. The top panel of a K2/100 is essentially one big heat sink. It soon became obvious the the K2 gets quite warm under continuous use – like when calling CQ endlessly for Field Day. The temporary FD solution was to re-position the fan to cover both the K2 and the operator.

Ten-Tec has a 12v external fan accessory, but it seemed like a good project to fill in the “waiting for family to get ready….” time.

I located a 3×6 heat sink that had been recovered from a dead computer CPU. As luck had it the heat sink had two parallel ridges along the bottom. Even luckier still, these ridges aligned well enough with the top of the K2 heat sink that it more or less “snapped on” to the top of the K2. The extra heat sink alone cooled the K2 a lot.  But a fan would help.

Having a couple of four inch pie fans in the junk box, also recovered from computers, I was on my way to a ten minute project.  Adding a couple of 5 inch rails cut from aluminum angle stock, a few nuts and bolts, and a dab of “JB Weld” epoxy, we get a nice heat sink/fan mash up. The K2 is now cool as ice. Functional – not esthetic!

Top view of the Fan/heat sinkTop view of the Fan/heat sink

Briefly, the fan is bolted to the aluminum angle. The angle is then epoxied to top of the the external heat 3×6 sink. A resistor is in-line to drop the fan speed by about half. The fan used is rated at 12v and 0.29 amps. Gathering a few half watt resistors, I came up with a 75 ohm 2 watt resistor. Putting the resistor in-line slowed the fan down and cut the fan noise completely. It still pushes plenty of air through the external heat sink. 75 ohms seemed to be the magic value needed to reduce the rpm’s “just enough”.  Even very slightly higher resistance values cut the fan off completely. The whole fan mash up still is a snap-on, snap-off accessory – nothing changed on the K2.

Heat Sink - SideHeat Sink – Side Ready for CoolingReady for Cooling

? Custom Knobbery ?

There is lots of chatter over the years on the Elecraft mail list about a good replacement knob for K2. The stock knob is fine, but a slightly larger knob seems to work more to my personal tastes. The knob installed is from a Yaesu FT-840.

K2 customizedK2 customized

The stock 840 knob has a plastic skirt, which can be seen in this RigPix photo. With the skirt left on the knob the display is obscured so it has been removed before installation on the K2. It appeared to have been held on it only a few drops of glue, so it could easily be re-installed later. That’s not an issue in this case, since the FT840 was involved in an unfortunate incident during a thunderstorm. 😮

The FT-840 knob is a perfect match to the Elecraft. It has a good feel, the tuning rate is slightly slower, and it even comes with its own “dimple”. Perfect. The 840 had a long shelf life, so this knob may be stocked for a while yet.

This knob would also be an improvement on the K3. I found the tuning on the K3 similar to the stock K2.

-more- at the K2 Impressions page

More Remote Antenna Switches

The current idea to incorporate the SixPak into the antenna switching scheme will also require more remote switching on the down range side of the SixPak. I expect to have two or three 40m antenna choices, and two or three 20m antenna choices. Perhaps even on 15m and 10m. The 20m and 40m antennas will be dipoles at right angles to one another. The goal is to allow all antennas for a given band to plug into the appropriate port on the SixPak.

Currently, the 15m/10m rectangular loop is down. The new 40m dipolewill occupy the support rope previously used for the rectangular loop. There are now brandnew support lines shot into the biologicals that I expect to use for 10m and 15m loops. Right now, a diamond loop fed at the bottom is appealing, but it may be a pair ofdelta loops instead. The nature and locations of the newsupport lines and the surronding foliage will force a dipole to be Vee’d.Pushing the necessary limitations into an advantage indicates loops might be appropriate, or better than Vee’d dipoles. (Engineer the possible!)

Loops on 10m and 15m have appeal. The average height of a delta loop radiator(apex up) will be slightly lower than a Vee’d dipole at the same height, but a loop has a teeny bit of gain over a dipole. Both of the supports are at about 55 feet. Loops favoring EU should be good performers, if those bands ever become more reliable in that direction.

If the band switches are on the antenna side of the SixPak, each radio will be somewhat better isolated, and neither will be on an antenna that is resonant with the other radio’s antenna. For bands with multiple antennas, coaxial stubs could be placed between the SixPak and the antenna switch to provide harmonic filtering across all of the antennas. i.e., One coaxial filter per band. That will save on coax for the stubs.

I will probably choose to run separate control cables for these mono-band antenna switches, but it is possible to use the coax for the control voltages. Personal preference is to keep the apples separate from the oranges. Having a couple of hundred feet of Cat-5e laying around is also a factor. The control cable is already on hand in quantity. Note: The AD5X project linked below uses the coax for control voltages.

Simple one relay switches will allow choosing two antennas. That will fit in a small enclosure, and allow for very short lead lengths between so239 connectors. (??Notes on test…??)

The Ei7BA remote switch.

The AD5X remote switch.

A 6×2 switch project byK5LXP

A list of antenna switching projectlinks at DXzone

Amended 4/13/2009, 6:20pm

Engineer The Possible

Engineer the possible. The “best” is too often the enemy of “good enough”.  If you wait until you have “The Best”, you may miss out on a lot of operating.    Better to aim for “the best POSSIBLE”, i.e., what can be accomplished within the constraints of resources and time frame available.

The recently completed W4KAZ SO2R box is going to be something “New” in the KazShack. But the choices made in building it are all “old” technology. It is a case of engineering the possible.

This has been a project that I have flipped and flopped on. The choice made was based on practicality rather than “the best” approach. The best approach would have been to utilize a new computer and the USB rather than the LPT port. That choice implies using some of the newer CW keying technologies(Winkeyer or Microham). O’course, that would also entail blowing a couple of thousand dollars on the new off-the-shelf hardware, none of which is currently on hand. This approach I characterize as “New Hotness”, per Agent K from MIB. So, where do I get a couple thousand dollars I can divert to this frivolity? (Answer: convince Number One Son to join the Navy rather than go to college? Didn’t work…)

The alternative is to see what can be accomplished using “Old and Busted”.

It turns out that practically speaking, “Old and Busted” is perfectly serviceable, even if it is not quite so much fun as “New Hotness”. New Hotness certainly has an advantage in the effectiveness of generating the CW in a seperate piece of dedicated hardware. Nice, but not essential. New Hotness also uses current technology. Also nice, and also not essential.

The fact is that Old and Busted can be designed to competently and reliably perform the essential basic tasks required:

  • Key the CW
  • Control the radio TX focus
  • Provide the band data or pass it along
  • Be easily home brewed [!!!!!the most important criteria!!!!!]
  • Be easily modified as needed/wanted/for experimentation

Even better yet, “Old and Busted” can be cobbled together very inexpensively relative to New Hotness. For my own part, the cobbling together is tremendously more satisfying than waiting for the postman or UPS truck for delivery.

O’course, price is also a big factor. But I have not found any home brew solutions utilizing USB. A hybrid solution could be derived by using the PIEXX SO2RXLAT device to convert USB to LPT type data. That seems like a workable bridge between old SO2R hardware and new computer tech. Possibly not ideal, but very plausible, and very attractive for those with money already invested in LPT hardware.

So, “Old and Busted” wins. Since I don’t like N1MM logging software, I don’t NEED a better shack computer. I can get by with a clunky old Win 98 box running good ole Writelog. Relying on an old CPU could be a reliability issue, but old CPU’s are free for the taking, and I already have several backup boxes on hand. The old boxes all have LPT ports, which is the approach that seems simplest for home brew of an SO2R box. A single LPT port can be configured to carry the CW, PTT, radio A/B switching, and also carries the band data for one of the radios.

So, Old and Busted wins out, at least for now.

Besides, I just can’t get my head wrapped around “needing” the latest-n-greatest technology for CW contesting. Really? Because CW is so cutting edge? Really?

It may all be moot. I may get the whole kit assembled and decide I don’t want to operate SO2R after trying it out. By going the old an busted route I have at the very least learned a lot by cobbling together several design ideas into a custom solution. That hands on education has more value to me than the cost of the New Hotness hardware. So even if I put the new toys aside after light usage, I win.

Engineer the possible. If you wait until you have “The Best”, you may miss out on a lot of operating.

Remote Antenna Switches

A little look at some interesting remote switch projects.

Far Circuits has the KO4NR project from QST, April 05antenna switch project. It is the circuit board and a full set of the required Zettler relays(az755-1c-12DE). A six position remote switch for only $36 plus shipping. Not bad. It is listed under “Repeater, Controller, and Station Accessories”.

Also KK1L has a 2×6 switch project posted on his site. It uses the same Zettler relay as the KO2NR project. A quick look at the data sheet shows that the P&B relay RTE24012F or RT424012 has a pin layout similar enough to be substituted for the Zettler. The Zettler has a 20A rating(both poles) while the P&B is rated at 16A. Pricing is similar, and the 16A P&B is in wide use in full power stations. Boards are not currently available from KK1L, but he has the full schematics posted.  Here is an analysis of the switch by AC0C.

Lacking PCB etching supplies and skills, it might be possible to produce a usable board for the Ko4NR project using a dremel tool. My own home brew switch was constructed dead bug style. It shows losses on 15m and 10m. I have a couple more antenna problems begging to besolved with 2 or 3 position remote switches. I think I’ll take a swat at connecting the so239 jacks via home brewed stripline.  Here’s an online stripline calculator.

KK1L also has a nice SO2R home brew project.

Antenna Switch

Obtained a third hand Array Soultions SixPak from N4YDU. The control box needed a wee bit of refurb. The LED indicators were not all working, although the switch itself is functioning well. One LED was cracked, three others blown, along with four of the resistors.

So, heating up the soldering iron and pulling a few parts was needed. This was more trouble than expected. The board is very well done, and it is simple to remove from the box. But I didn’t anticipate the minor fly in the ointment. The holes are ‘plated through’. The LED’s were simple enough to replace, and I had close match replacement LEDs in the parts bin. The four bad resistors were a bit less cooperative. It was difficult to remove enough solder with the solder wick.

The new resistors were difficult to install, because the plated through holes were a close fit even when clean. Downright difficult with a coat of solder in them. I resorted to alternately heating the holes and pushing each lead through a couple of millimeters at a time. Once I had enough fed through, I was able to grab the leads with forceps. Then I was able to hold both leads, apply hot iron, and pull the part down flush with the PCB.

So what should have taken 15 minutes tops probably took almost 90 minutes. Grrrr. Not difficult, just frustrating. The LEDs I had on hand are not exact color matches, but very close when lit. The red matches better than the greens, but I didn’t want to chance messing something up – if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. I’ll replace them if they blow up.

The SixPak is probably overkill here, but will be a good thing if a certain SB-1000 ever migrates into the KazShack. It could happen.

Now I just need to figure out the best way to re-configure the station. The idea is to allow SO2R experimentation at some point. That will require some alternate antennas and a set of filters on each. I’m not there yet. Then maybe a W9XT band decoder board for auto band switching.

Coming along, slow but sure. Sure to slow down that is, because the first tuition check for the college bound eldest is due in three months.

EeeeK!